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Acropora (Acropora sp.)

Acropora

Acropora sp.
Family
Acroporidae
Care level
Advanced
Lighting
High
Flow
High
Placement
Top third / high light
PAR
200–400
Temperament
Peaceful
Growth form
Branching (staghorn, table, bushy/corymbose and digitate forms)
Max size
Colony to 30 cm+ in the tank; far larger on the reef over years
Colour
Enormous range — blues, purples, greens, reds, oranges and yellows, often with contrasting coloured tips (corallites) an
Diet
Photosynthetic + light supplemental feeding

Overview

Acropora is the flagship genus of the reef hobby — the branching, tabling and staghorn corals that define a classic 'SPS tank'. It is the largest and most diverse coral genus, and its members offer some of the most intense colours available, from electric blues and purples to reds, greens and multi-tone tips. A well-grown Acropora colony is the centrepiece many reefers aspire to.

It is also the most demanding coral we stock, and honesty matters here: Acropora rewards stability above all else and punishes neglect quickly. It wants strong light, strong flow, low nutrients within reason, and — most importantly — rock-steady alkalinity, calcium and magnesium. Sudden swings that other corals shrug off can trigger rapid tissue loss. This is not a coral for a new or fluctuating system; it belongs in a mature, well-managed tank.

As one-of-one WYSIWYG livestock, the exact colony or frag you see is the one you take home, with its own unique colour and growth form. Be aware that Acropora colours shift significantly with lighting spectrum and intensity, so a piece will often look different at home and may take weeks to colour up as it adjusts.

Placement & neighbours

Place Acropora high in the tank where it gets the strongest light and flow, on secure rockwork — it grows into large, brittle branching colonies, so mount it firmly where it has room to extend upward and outward. It is essentially peaceful toward neighbours and relies on growth rather than stinging to compete, though some species put out short sweeper tentacles at night, so leave a little space between colonies.

The bigger compatibility risk is the other way around: Acropora is easily stung and overgrown. Keep it well clear of aggressive LPS such as Euphyllia, torch and Elegance corals, whose long sweepers will burn it, and away from mat-forming softies and encrusting corals that can grow onto its base. It sits best in a dedicated SPS zone alongside other Acropora and Montipora.

Health & acclimation

Acropora needs a stable, mature tank and careful pest screening — this is the coral most affected by dedicated predators. Always coral-dip and, ideally, quarantine new pieces to screen for Acropora-eating flatworms (AEFW) and red bugs, both of which are hard to spot and can spread through a collection; inspect the base and check dip water for pests and eggs. Acclimate light gradually to avoid bleaching, and match temperature and salinity carefully. The classic warning sign is tissue recession or 'STN/RTN' (slow or rapid tissue necrosis), where tissue peels from the base or tips and exposes white skeleton — this is usually driven by unstable alkalinity or another parameter swing and needs immediate attention. Healthy polyp extension is the best day-to-day sign that an Acropora is settled.

Frequently asked questions

Is Acropora suitable for beginners?
Not as a first coral. It's an advanced SPS that demands a stable, mature tank and consistent alkalinity, calcium and magnesium. We'd suggest building experience with softies, LPS and hardier SPS like Montipora first, then moving to Acropora once your parameters hold steady over time.
What's the most important thing for keeping Acropora alive?
Stability. Acropora tolerates a range of conditions but not sudden change — a swing in alkalinity in particular can trigger rapid tissue loss. Keep your big three parameters consistent through regular testing and dosing, and avoid large water-quality changes.
What pests should I watch for?
Chiefly Acropora-eating flatworms (AEFW) and red bugs, both small and easily missed. Always coral-dip and ideally quarantine new pieces, inspect the base, and check the dip water for pests and eggs. Screening before adding a coral is the best protection for your collection.
Why did my Acropora turn brown after I added it?
Browning usually means the coral is adjusting to your light — often less intense than where it was grown — or that nutrients are higher than ideal. Give it time, make sure it's high enough in good light and flow, and keep parameters stable; colour typically returns as it settles.
How much light and flow does it need?
High on both — roughly 200–400 PAR and strong, turbulent flow that keeps the branches clean. Increase light gradually to avoid bleaching. Too little light or flow leads to browning and poor growth, so a top position in an SPS-focused tank suits it best.
What does it mean when the tips turn white?
There's an important distinction. Bright white, rounded growth tips are a good sign of active growth, while tissue peeling back from the base or tips to expose bare skeleton is tissue necrosis (STN/RTN) and is serious. If tissue is receding, check your alkalinity and parameters immediately and consider fragging above the affected area.

Care guidance is drawn from our own experience — every coral is an individual, so treat it as a starting point, not a guarantee. Not sure if a coral suits your system? Come ask us in store.