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Lobophyllia (Lobophyllia sp.)

Lobophyllia

Lobophyllia sp.
Family
Lobophylliidae
Care level
Beginner
Lighting
Low
Flow
Low
Placement
Bottom / sand bed
PAR
50–150
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Growth form
Fleshy colonial brain (dome or hill-and-valley 'meat' coral)
Max size
Colony commonly 10–25 cm; large heads to 30 cm+ over years
Colour
Highly variable of red, orange, green, teal and purple; often contrasting valley and ridge colours
Diet
Photosynthetic + supplemental feeding

Overview

Lobophyllia is a large fleshy 'brain' or 'meat' coral and one of the most rewarding LPS for reefers of all levels. Colonies are made up of fleshy polyps arranged over a domed skeleton, sometimes as separate rounded heads and sometimes in a hill-and-valley pattern, and the whole surface inflates during the day into a plush, colourful cushion. Australian-collected specimens in particular are famous for intense 'rainbow' colouration that makes them standout centrepiece corals.

Note that the taxonomy here has shifted — many corals long sold as Symphyllia are now placed within Lobophyllia, so you'll see both names used for similar-looking animals. For care purposes they're treated the same. What matters in the tank is that these are hardy, forgiving corals that ask for modest light, gentle flow, and a low, stable position.

As one-of-one WYSIWYG livestock, the exact colony you see is the one you take home, with its own unique colour pattern and shape. Expect colour and inflation to settle over the following weeks as the coral adjusts to your lighting and system.

Placement & neighbours

Place Lobophyllia low in the tank — on the sand bed or a flat, low rock — with clear space around it. Although it appears passive, it can extend feeding and sweeper tentacles at night that will sting nearby corals, so it's best treated as semi-aggressive when planning neighbours. Leave a margin around the fully inflated colony, since it puffs up well beyond its skeleton and shouldn't be able to touch anything when expanded.

It won't tolerate being shaded or overgrown by faster corals, so keep encrusting SPS, mushrooms and mat-forming softies back from it. It coexists well with other calm, low-light LPS such as Acanthophyllia, Scolymia/Homophyllia and Cynarina, each given its own space. Avoid placing it directly beneath aggressive Euphyllia or torch corals whose long sweepers can reach down onto its fleshy tissue.

Health & acclimation

Lobophyllia is generally hardy, but the fleshy tissue is delicate and tears easily, so handle it by the skeleton and never squeeze or touch the flesh. Acclimate gently — match temperature and salinity over 20–30 minutes and keep it under low light for the first day or two, then settle it low in the tank. A gentle coral dip helps clear pests; inspect the underside and skeleton edges for LPS-eating flatworms and small predatory snails. The main things to watch for are brown jelly infection, which can spread quickly through damaged tissue, and tissue recession exposing skeleton at the margins, which usually points to too much flow, too much light, or unstable parameters rather than disease.

Frequently asked questions

What's the difference between Lobophyllia and Symphyllia?
Historically they were separate genera, but many corals once called Symphyllia have been reclassified into Lobophyllia, so the names are now used somewhat interchangeably for similar brain-like meat corals. For aquarium care there's no practical difference — treat them the same.
Is Lobophyllia good for beginners?
Yes, it's one of the better beginner LPS. It's hardy and forgiving as long as you give it low light, gentle flow, a stable tank, and a low placement. Its main sensitivities are physical damage to the fleshy tissue and too much light or flow.
Do I need to feed it?
It will live on light alone but does noticeably better with feeding. Offer meaty foods like mysis or chopped prawn a couple of times a week, placed on the polyps in the evening when the feeding tentacles are out. Regular feeding supports growth and colour.
Why is my Lobophyllia not inflating or showing exposed skeleton?
That's almost always placement or water quality rather than illness. Check that flow isn't too strong and light isn't too bright, move it lower if needed, and confirm your parameters are stable. Exposed skeleton at the edges needs prompt attention before it progresses.
How much light does it need?
Low to moderate, roughly 50–150 PAR. These corals bleach or look washed out under intense reef lighting, so a shaded, lower position suits them best. If a vivid colony is fading, too much light is a likely cause.
Does it sting other corals?
It can. Although it looks passive, it extends feeding and sweeper tentacles at night that will sting corals within reach, so leave a clear margin around the fully inflated colony and keep other corals out of range.

Care guidance is drawn from our own experience — every coral is an individual, so treat it as a starting point, not a guarantee. Not sure if a coral suits your system? Come ask us in store.