🚚 Dry goods ship Australia-wide 🐠 Livestock — buy online, collect in store 🧪 In-store water analysis
Home  /  Coral Range  /  Scolymia
Scolymia (Homophyllia australis)

Scolymia

Homophyllia australis
Family
Lobophylliidae
Care level
Intermediate
Lighting
Low
Flow
Low
Placement
Bottom / sand bed
PAR
50–120
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Growth form
Solitary single-polyp (disc/dome 'meat' coral)
Max size
Single polyp typically 5–12 cm across; large specimens to ~15 cm
Colour
Highly variable — prized multi-colour 'Master Scoly' patterns: red, orange, green, teal and blue rings, bullseyes and mo
Diet
Photosynthetic + supplemental feeding

Overview

Homophyllia australis, still widely sold under its old name Scolymia australis, is the Australian button or doughnut coral — a solitary, single-polyp LPS and one of the most collectable corals in the hobby. Unlike branching or colonial corals, each specimen is a single fleshy polyp on a disc-shaped skeleton, and the appeal is almost entirely in the colour and pattern of that one polyp. The most striking multi-colour specimens, often called 'Master Scolys', command premium prices precisely because no two are alike.

They come from cooler southern Australian waters and are collected at depth, which shapes their care: they want low light, gentle flow, and a spot on the sand or low rockwork rather than a bright, high-flow position. Kept correctly they are hardy and long-lived, and a healthy Scoly will inflate into a smooth, colourful cushion that becomes a genuine centrepiece.

As one-of-one WYSIWYG livestock, the exact polyp you see is the one you take home — its colour, pattern and size are unique to that piece. Bear in mind that colour and inflation can shift as the coral settles into your own lighting and system over the following weeks.

Placement & neighbours

Place Homophyllia australis on the sand bed or low on the rockwork, in a shaded, low-flow position. Although it looks passive, it is a Lobophylliid and can extend sweeper tentacles, particularly at night, and will sting corals it can reach. Give it a clear margin — leave open space equal to at least the polyp's own diameter around it so a neighbour doesn't get burned when the coral inflates or sends out feeders.

It does not tolerate being overgrown or shaded by faster corals, so keep encrusting SPS, mushrooms and mat-forming softies well back. It sits happily alongside other calm, low-light LPS such as Acanthophyllia, Cynarina and other Scolymia/Homophyllia, provided each has its own space. Avoid housing it directly beneath aggressive Euphyllia or torch corals whose long sweepers can reach down onto it.

Health & acclimation

Acclimate gently — match temperature and salinity over 20–30 minutes and keep it out of bright light for the first day or two, as these are low-light animals collected from depth. A gentle coral dip is worthwhile to clear pests, but handle the polyp carefully because the tissue is soft and tears easily; never touch or squeeze the fleshy surface. The main pests are Scoly-eating and LPS-feeding flatworms, plus small predatory snails such as Pyramidellids, so inspect the underside of the disc and the skeleton edge closely. Watch for tissue recession at the skeleton margin or a persistently deflated polyp, which usually signals too much light, too much flow, or unstable parameters rather than disease.

Frequently asked questions

What's the difference between a Scolymia and a 'Master Scoly'?
They're the same animal — 'Master Scoly' isn't a separate species but a hobby term for exceptionally coloured, multi-pattern specimens of Homophyllia australis. The name reflects the grade and pattern of that individual polyp, not a different type of coral, which is why prices vary so widely.
Why won't my Scoly inflate properly?
A polyp that stays deflated is almost always reacting to placement or water rather than being sick. Check that light and flow aren't too strong and that it's low and shaded, then confirm your parameters are stable. Move it somewhere calmer and give it time — they can take a while to settle before puffing up fully.
Do I need to feed it, or is light enough?
It will survive on light alone but does far better with feeding. Offer meaty foods like mysis or small prawn pieces a few times a week, placed on the polyp in the evening once its feeding tentacles are out. Regular feeding supports both health and colour.
How much light does it need?
Low light — roughly 50–120 PAR. These corals come from deeper, cooler water and bleach or stay closed under bright reef lighting. A shaded spot on the sand or low rock is ideal; if it's high in a bright tank, it's likely getting too much.
Is it aggressive toward other corals?
More than it looks. It can extend sweeper tentacles, especially at night, and sting corals it reaches, so leave clear space around it — at least the width of the polyp. Keep faster or aggressive neighbours from growing over or down onto it.
Is Homophyllia australis suitable for beginners?
It's best described as an easy intermediate coral. It's hardy and undemanding once placed well, but it rewards a stable, established tank and a keeper who will feed it and get the low light and gentle flow right. Given the price of nicer specimens, we'd suggest starting one in a settled system rather than a brand-new tank.

Care guidance is drawn from our own experience — every coral is an individual, so treat it as a starting point, not a guarantee. Not sure if a coral suits your system? Come ask us in store.