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Zoanthids & Palys (Zoanthus / Palythoa sp.)

Zoanthids & Palys

Zoanthus / Palythoa sp.
Family
Zoanthidae / Sphenopidae
Care level
Beginner
Lighting
Medium
Flow
Medium
Placement
Bottom / sand bed
PAR
50–150
Temperament
Peaceful
Growth form
Colonial button polyps on an encrusting mat
Max size
Individual polyps 0.5–3 cm; colonies spread across available surfaces
Colour
Enormous range — named morphs in every colour, with contrasting centres, skirts and mouths (e.g. 'Rasta', 'Utter Chaos',
Diet
Photosynthetic + occasional supplemental feeding

Overview

Zoanthids ('zoas') and Palythoa ('palys') are colonial button polyps that grow as a mat of individual disc-shaped heads, each with a ring of short tentacles around a central mouth. They come in an almost endless range of colours and patterns, and the named morphs — with hobby names like 'Rasta', 'Utter Chaos' and 'Fruit Loops' — are among the most collectable corals in the reef world. As a broad rule, Zoanthus tend to be smaller, brighter polyps while Palythoa are larger and often have a more speckled or muted look, but the two are cared for the same way.

They're a superb beginner coral: hardy, colourful, forgiving of a range of light and flow, and quick to multiply into an impressive colony. Their one serious caveat isn't about care difficulty but safety — these polyps can contain palytoxin, one of the most potent natural toxins known, so they must be handled with care (covered below).

As one-of-one WYSIWYG livestock, the exact frag or colony you see is the one you take home, with its specific morph and colour. Zoa colour and how far the polyps open can shift noticeably as they acclimate to your lighting and flow.

Placement & neighbours

Zoas and palys are essentially peaceful — they don't sting neighbours with sweeper tentacles — and they compete mainly by slowly encrusting and spreading across available surfaces. That makes them easy mixed-reef citizens, though a vigorous colony can gradually creep over nearby rock, so give it room and keep an eye on the advancing edge. They're best placed low-to-mid on rockwork where they get moderate light and gentle-to-moderate flow.

The main compatibility risk runs against them: they're easily overgrown or shaded by faster corals, and they can be irritated by aggressive LPS whose sweepers reach them, so keep stinging neighbours like Euphyllia at a distance. Some fish and inverts nip at zoas, and a colony that won't open is sometimes being pestered rather than being unhealthy. Give them their own patch of rock and they'll steadily fill it in.

Health & acclimation

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Zoanthids and especially Palythoa can carry palytoxin, a potentially lethal toxin. Never handle, cut or scrape them with bare hands — wear nitrile gloves and eye protection, never do so with open cuts, avoid ever boiling or pouring hot water over rock carrying them (which can aerosolise the toxin), and keep them away from your face and mouth. Poisonings, some serious, have occurred from fragging and from cleaning rock indoors. Treat every zoa and paly as toxic to be safe. On general care, they're hardy and acclimate easily — match temperature and salinity, and dip new frags, since the main pests are well-camouflaged zoa-eating nudibranchs, sundial snails, and 'zoa spiders'; inspect closely and quarantine where possible. A colony that stays closed for a long period usually signals a pest, poor water quality, or too much light or flow rather than disease.

Frequently asked questions

Are Zoanthids really toxic, and how should I handle them?
Yes — zoas and especially palys can contain palytoxin, a potentially lethal toxin. Always wear nitrile gloves and eye protection when fragging or handling them, never do so with open cuts or near your face, and never boil or pour hot water over rock carrying them, as that can release the toxin into the air. Serious poisonings have happened from careless fragging and rock cleaning, so treat every colony as toxic.
Are they good for beginners?
Very much so. They're hardy, colourful, forgiving of a range of conditions, and multiply readily, which makes them one of the best value beginner corals. The only real caution is the palytoxin safety point when handling them — the care itself is easy.
Why won't my zoas open?
Closed zoas are usually reacting to something rather than dying. Common causes are pests (zoa-eating nudibranchs, sundial snails or 'zoa spiders'), too much light or flow, water-quality shifts, or simply being newly added. Inspect closely for pests, check your flow and light aren't too strong, and give a new colony time to settle.
What's the difference between a Zoanthid and a Palythoa?
As a rough guide, Zoanthus polyps tend to be smaller and brighter, while Palythoa are usually larger with a more speckled or muted appearance, and palys often carry higher palytoxin levels. For aquarium care they're kept identically — the distinction matters most for handling caution.
How much light do they need for the best colour?
Moderate light around 50–150 PAR, and many morphs look their best under blue-heavy reef lighting. Too much light can wash out colours or keep them closed, while too little makes them stretch and dull. If a colony is fading, adjust its position and give it time to adapt.
Do they spread, and will they take over?
They spread by budding new polyps across their mat and can encrust over nearby rock, but they're far less invasive than something like Green Star Polyps and don't sting neighbours. Give a colony its own patch of rock and keep an eye on the edges, and they're easy to manage.

Care guidance is drawn from our own experience — every coral is an individual, so treat it as a starting point, not a guarantee. Not sure if a coral suits your system? Come ask us in store.